Just like surfers idling in the Pacific Ocean 25 miles away, Chow is poised to ride a wave. There's one critical difference, however, between the wet-suit-clad groups waiting patiently for the next breaker and the market/cafe in Lafayette, Calif., just east of San Francisco. Chow's wave is guaranteed: From early morning until late at night, day after day, the place fills up with all sorts of people. But the predominant age group patronizing the aisles and tables is decidedly an older, ...

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