SOMETIMES IT'S GOOD TO SEE how the other half lives. Across the tracks, on the opposite end of the food retail spectrum, thriving single-unit natural food stores remind conventional retailers what it means to get into the health and wellness business. People's Food Co-op in Portland, Ore., is a prime example. Founded as a buying club in 1970, the 3,000-member community food outlet in the city's bohemian Hawthorne section has become a neighborhood focal point, not only for food, but ...

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