Butter is back en vogue, thanks to consumers’ desire for less processed foods. In 2005, per capita butter consumption surpassed per capita margarine consumption for the first time since 1957, according to USDA data. (USDA tracks per capita availability by weight, commonly used as a stand-in for consumption.) However, butter consumption is still a fraction of what it was in the first half of the 20th century. At the same time, IRI’s volume sales at retail show a different ...

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