Creating interesting, artisanal cheese departments has served small operators well, especially in market areas where big chains reign. The likes of Fairway Market, New York; Kowalski’s Markets, St. Paul, Minn.; and West Point Market, Akron, Ohio, have long been leaders in developing standout specialty cheese departments that almost certainly give them an edge on the competition. Indeed, consultant Brian Salus, founder and president of Salus & Associates, Mathews, Va., said ...

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