THE DRIVE TO INDIANOLA, MISS., PASSES COTTON FIELDS, catfish farms and a host of small towns that time seems to have forgotten. This is the Delta, birthplace of the blues and a region rich in tradition. It's also one of the most unhealthy and economically depressed parts of the country. Here, fast-food restaurants reign supreme, and recipes often call for deep frying and lots of butter. Most food retailers wouldn't even think of promoting healthful eating in the Mississippi Delta. But ...

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