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How to navigate wine in grocery stores

Rob Stein
For The Tennessean

We have entered a new era of wine purchasing in Tennessee. Consumers can buy wine while shopping for milk, bread and laundry detergent. What does that mean to the consumer? How does one adjust to the new marketplace, and what benefit accrues to each of us?

There is no question that convenience is a major factor for most people. If we can carry out chores with one stop instead of two, most of us will be quite happy. The ability to buy wine during our trip to the grocery is a welcome change.

5 things to know about wine in grocery stores

Wine sales begin in grocery stores

The downside of that is that buying wine at the grocery most likely entails the same advice you get when you buy milk — none.  Don’t expect assistants to help with your selection. You are on your own. Some retailers will provide some tag information to help. However, for many of the choices, information just isn’t there.

That is a departure from the type of service we expect when we go to our local wine shop and ask for advice.

Another aspect of the new era involves price. Savvy shoppers are always looking for bargains and specials that they can take advantage of.  What about that aspect of the new marketplace?  It turns out, it's not so simple.

Many had assumed that the "big boy" grocery chains with huge buying power would be able to drive down the prices of many wines to more friendly realms. Sorry, folks, that isn’t the case.

Our legislative wizards decided — as part of the compromise to approve the sale of wine in groceries — that wine could not be sold at a price lower than 20 percent over wholesale. That price control prevents groceries from transferring savings of bulk purchase on to the consumer. Thank your lawmakers for that.

But, wait, for there is a wrinkle in the system for those who still are adamant about finding bargains. While the price of Meiomi Pinot Noir or Barefoot Bubbly may be the same in virtually every store in town, there will be aberrations related to allocation and exclusivity.

Additionally, the legislative-mandated price control only deals with the bottom of the pricing range. Nothing stops any store from increasing its price to increase its profit margin. As ever, buyer beware.

Voters in Portland and Westmoreland approved the sale of wine in grocery stores during the Nov. 8 election.

All stores have to buy from the same state distributors. Certain wines have limited allocation to Tennessee due to limited production. Distributors will have to decide who gets what. Not all stores will have access to the same wines.

The smaller the production of a wine, the greater the likelihood that larger groceries will either be unable or unwilling to stock that item. Conversely, they will be able to corner the market by absorbing much or all of the allocation for our state.

There is another wrinkle that is even more profound, and that is exclusivity. It is also the place where wine bargains may live. For those who were looking for deep discounts, the place to look may be in proprietary brands that are available only to certain retailers — specifically Costco and Trader Joe's.

Costco has selections in all price categories, as well as the Kirkland brand. The store also has far and away the best signage to help consumers.

A recent visit to Costco revealed several choices offered under the Kirkland label. That included both Champagne and Chateauneuf du Pape selections.

Trader Joe's is famous for rock-bottom prices and it doesn't disappoint. The store appears to have cornered the market for low-end pricing in terms of selection. However, most extraordinary is its Two Buck Chuck (Charles F. Shaw) that the store is famous for.  Flying off the shelves were the chardonnay and cabernet at $3.49. It may no longer be $2, but at that price point, it gets your attention.

Trader Joe's corners the bargain part of the market, led by the remarkable Two Buck Chuck.

In the new era of wine buying, we now have the option of choosing to go to our local wine shop or our local grocery. Which is best for you may depend upon how much time you have and how much advice you need.

If you choose the grocery, you may want to download apps on your smartphone for advice and additional information. A cursory exploration of the app store revealed several sites that gave both ratings and descriptions.

At your local wine shop you usually know the palate of the person giving you advice. On an app, the source is not clear.

The two highest regarded apps are maintained by The Wine Spectator and Vinous, but both of those require a pricey subscription that many folks may not want to incur. Nonetheless, information is there for people who seek it.

Moving forward, remember that exploration of the unknown continues to be exciting if occasionally frustrating. Most importantly, engage both the process and the product and remember to enjoy!

Rob Stein, an orthopedic surgeon in Nashville, has been a wine enthusiast and collector for more than 40 years.

Wine in grocery stores: It's been a long road for Tennessee