After initially reacting to hard times by cutting variety and service, retailers now are giving specialty cheese its due. Putting the brakes on didn't work so well, so they're reconnoitering, looking to make the most of the category. They're doing even more sampling, seeking support from vendors like never before, trying some unusual pairings — like bleus with dark chocolate — and ramping up training, customer service and customer education. “We realized we'd better start selling,” said ...

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