IN THE BEGINNING there was the local co-op, oftentimes a dingy storefront on the wrong side of the nearest college town. Born of the counterculture ethos, these first lonely outposts on the “health food” frontier hardly seemed like the seeds of a megabillion-dollar growth industry that would eventually cut even the Jolly Green Giant down to size. Yet here we are, in a brand new age in which “organic” is on everyone's lips and sales of whole-health products are an all-natural supernova ...

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