THE NUMBERS ARE ENCOURAGING: Almost three-quarters of the U.S. population buy organic products at least occasionally; nearly a quarter purchase them weekly. But even raw statistics fail to capture the dramatic impact organics have had on the way Americans shop, and the way supermarkets sell food. It's difficult to understand how a category that's one-fortieth the size of the $557 billion food business could be so influential. Sales might be relatively small, but the message shoppers are ...

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