Baltimore — Controversy might surround the seafood industry like a giant net, but that doesn't mean retailers can't find ways to use the current situation as a chance to escape ho-hum sales. “Seafood is the most complex category of them all,” said Henry Lovejoy, president of EcoFish, a Dover, N.H.-based company that sells sustainable species. “That's because it's the last wild-harvested one of all the categories.” Lovejoy, along with Rebecca Goldburg, senior scientist for Environmental ...

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