The food business is alive and well in New York City, as well it should be: There are more than 8 million mouths to feed every day in the five boroughs, not to mention 50 million annual visitors. Not surprisingly, the competition for share of stomach is pretty intense, and given New York’s diverse economic and ethnic profiles, its density and its costs, a conventional supermarket isn’t always the ideal vehicle. In ritzy Manhattan, those traditional operators are under ...

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