LOOKING AT the San Antonio marketplace is like remembering the Alamo, which is located in the city's center — except that the hometown team, not the invaders, comes out victorious. The hometown team is H.E. Butt Grocery Co., and it has managed over the years to force out chains who set up shop there, like Albertsons and Kroger, and to discourage others from entering its home market altogether. “San Antonio is so dominated by H-E-B that hardly anyone really pays attention to it,” one ...

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