There’s no doubt that the health and wellness movement has helped swing the consumer pendulum back towards simplicity and authenticity. One only has to look at the recent backlashes over “pink slime” and cochineal bug extract to understand the power of the shift as demand for clean ingredient lists, local foods and artisan items moves to the fore. The changeover fails to reflect practical reality, however. A more reliable picture can be found in any supermarket: Tally ...

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