At least until the recession hit a few years ago, conventional supermarket industry wisdom advised retailers to steer clear of the middle. With multiple channels and specialty concepts now honing in on the food retailing business, the reasoning went, stores that shoot for a wide swath of the market using a combination of service and price attributes are bound to lose their way. And between the carcasses of retailers who'd lost the pricing game to Wal-Mart and/or the service niche to brands ...

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