Seafood departments have had a great story to tell during the past half-decade. Study after study has confirmed the health benefits of eating fish, the consumer media and nutritionists have made “omega-3s” a household word, and retailers and suppliers have more or less begun to rally around the common cause of sustainable fisheries management. The balance sheets haven’t looked so shabby, either. From 2005 through the end of 2010, dollar sales of seafood rose almost 30% in supermarket ...

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