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Eataly's radical approach to changing consumer consumption habits

Eataly's novel approach to foodservice comes as spending on food consumed away from home exceeded spending on food consumed in the home for the first time ever.

Neil Z. Stern, Senior Partner

September 3, 2015

2 Min Read

In just the past three months, I have experienced Eataly in four very distinct markets: Chicago; Milan, Italy; Sao Paulo, Brazil; and Seoul, South Korea. It is remarkable enough that Eataly can now be found on four continents but it also speaks volumes to the changes that are occurring on a global basis in food consumption.

In the U.S., for the first time ever, spending on food consumed away from home exceeded spending on food consumed in the home. The battle for “share of stomach” has taken a few twists and turns along the way but we have largely witnessed a slow and steady progression of food away from home gaining market share. In March 2015, these two lines finally converged.

Wonder what the future might look like? The all-important Millennial consumer is spending more than its fair share in restaurants. So, this trend is likely to continue.

How to respond? Supermarkets are actually doing a very reasonable job, with their own share of foodservice growing at a faster pace than even restaurants. Of course, the industry can be doing more. Highly evolved concepts like Mariano’s show how far the envelope can be pushed, with the addition of BBQ restaurants, wine bars, oyster bars and veggie grills included in their new format.

Eataly Seoul

Coming from outside the industry, Eataly takes an even more radical approach. While the original versions in Italy still show a strong balance between a fresh marketplace and restaurant environment, their foreign models look a bit different. The formats in New York and Chicago have strong restaurant partners and have shifted even further into the foodservice world. My visit to the newest Eataly in Seoul, which just opened last week, reveals an Eataly that is essentially an Italian food court. In this format, the restaurant focus overshadows the relatively minor efforts to sell food.

What will the supermarket look like in the future? A few more visits to formats like Eataly can provide some clues. I’m happy to be the tour guide!

About the Author

Neil Z. Stern

Senior Partner, McMillanDoolittle

Neil Z. Stern is a senior partner of McMillanDoolittle specializing in the area of strategic planning and the development of new retail concepts. Neil leads the company’s food practice.

During his 25 year career at McMillanDoolittle, Neil has developed strategies and new concepts for a diverse variety of clients across the retail industry. As a food industry thought leader, Neil has worked across all segments, including supermarkets, convenience stores and foodservice. Key clients have included an impressive mix of large and small food retailers, including Harris Teeter, Price Chopper, Wawa Food Markets, Winn Dixie, McDonald’s Corp., Publix Super Markets, Walmart and Safeway, as well as international companies.

He is editor of McMillanDoolittle’s Retail Watch newsletter and is a frequent speaker on the industry.

Neil has co-authored two books, "Winning At Retail" and "Greentailing and Other Revolutions in Retailing."

Neil is an honors graduate of Columbia University and has attended Northwestern’s Kellogg MBA program.

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