THE GLUTEN-FREE QUESTION

Mina Williams (FNS)

Celiac disease, also known as gluten sensitive enteropathy (GSE) or gluten intolerance, affects about one out of every 133 Americans. Along with food allergies, it has become a topic of concern for manufacturers and retailers alike. As awareness grows of the condition -- caused by an inability to absorb gluten from wheat, rye and barley -- the industry has responded with reformulated baking mixes along with alternative breads, cookies, crackers, snacks and cereals.

Of course, one would expect the leading natural foods chains, Whole Food Market and Wild Oats Markets, along with regional chains like Seattle-based PCC Natural Markets and Portland, Ore.-based New Seasons Market, to offer some gluten-free products. Yet traditional operators have also jumped in. Safeway's Seattle-area units squeezed out space in the frozen foods section to incorporate wheat-free waffles. It is the independent retailers, however, who are eyeing this niche as a means to increase foot traffic in their stores.

"Gluten-free is our most expanded category," said Karrie Stemmler, co-owner of Manna Mills, a Mountlake Terrace, Wash., natural foods market. "We've always carried alternatives, such as rice cheeses and soy milk. It was easy to carry more wheat alternatives."

Other independents have approached the niche with panache. Rochester, N.Y.-based Wegmans Food Markets makes available a "Celiac Meal of the Week" to ease menu planning for those affected with the disease. The retailer also provides shoppers with a list of private-label items that are gluten-free, including those in the Food You Feel Good About and Italian Classics lines.

Trader Joe's, South Pasadena, Calif., has compiled a roster of gluten-free items available in its stores. The list, created with the Celiac Disease Foundation, points out that many products, including those in dairy and produce, are not expressly labeled "gluten-free," even though they do not contain gluten. This satisfies consumers looking for an alternative, and frees the retailer from having to create special displays or sections for gluten-free goods.