L.A. CONVENIENCE: GOURMET TAKE-AWAY, PREPACKED -- AND FAST

ROBERT VOSBURGH

WEST HOLLYWOOD, Calif. -- Urban Epicuria, a new store here that seeks to streamline the fresh-meals segment by serving only prepackaged ready-to-heat foods, has opened on busy Santa Monica Boulevard.

What differentiates this operation from standard supermarket fresh-meals programs is that Urban Epicuria focuses exclusively on gourmet packaged meals and components, beverages, and a select number of accessories, according to co-founder Wayne Davis.

"[Customers] should be able to move through the store, pick up what they need, and be checked out and be on their way in 15 minutes," he said.

The centerpiece of the 4,500-square-foot store is the "food concierge" desk, where an employee specially trained in the store's food and beverage menu can escort customers through the shopping process. The concierge can also offer advice on pairing foods and wines, portioning, and serving suggestions.

The store lies on a major east-west route connecting downtown Los Angeles with the surrounding residential communities, making it easy for commuters to patronize the store on the way home from work.

"We're driven by convenience," said Davis. "It's about making it easy to park, to access the product and get in and out of the store."

The only retail competition in the immediate vicinity is a Mayfair Market across the street -- which lacks a deli -- and a Vons Pavilion store about 2 miles away, which contains a meal-solutions department.

Urban Epicuria's gourmet take-away menu is based on restaurant-quality food, said Davis, in describing the difference between his concept and the others.

The average ring is currently $13.25, though a typical two-person meal of "a starter, two main courses and dessert" will likely approach the $20 mark, according to Davis.

Customers looking to upgrade the meal even further can add side dishes, wine or accessories such as flowers, which are also available from a small floral counter near the front. Even family pets are included: Gourmet biscuits are made in the bakery and special place settings can be found in the accessories area.

The operations center of the store is a 2,200-square-foot open kitchen separated from the shopping floor by a refrigerated case holding bulk trays of menu items. The kitchen area is also the labor center of the store, since roughly half of the store's total employee roster of 35 works in the kitchen.

Urban Epicuria employs a full-time professional chef, Ken Brown, as well as a pastry chef, Brendon "Mani" Niall. Together with Davis, and co-owners Alan and Gail Baral, the team has developed an extensive opening menu that includes appetizers, soups, salads, main courses, rotisserie, fish, vegetarian offerings, pasta, side dishes, childrens' specialties, and, of course, desserts.

Despite the wide variety, the items were chosen for their cost-per-portion margins and their ability to retain maximum flavor during holding. "We were very deliberate in making our choices, in doing our research and development," noted Davis.

In back of the kitchen, employees trained under a Hazard Analysis Critical Control Point program use quick-chillers to rapidly cool the food. The items are then portioned, weighed and sealed in Urban Epicuria's signature "road signage" rethermalization packaging.

Labeling for all food products is extensive and facilitates the convenience factor by including the manufacture date, care instructions, ingredients, nutritional information and price. Bar coding on the labels speeds the front-end check out.

Items from the menu are available in one- or two-portion servings, and are priced per pound. The packages are placed inside a 44-foot open case that also has sections for beverages, beer, wine and selected accessories, such as pate.

Customers looking for larger quantities, or to meet special dietary needs, can find assistance from the concierge and the bulk-items case bordering the kitchen area.

Davis said the store intentionally lacks seating, in keeping with the company's philosophy that the food should be enjoyed elsewhere, such as home.