ON FATS: THE GOOD, THE BAD AND THE JUST OK

Corinne S. Bernstein

THE TERM "HEALTHY FAT" might seem like an oxymoron to some, but the line between so-called "good" and "bad" fats is becoming more pronounced to nutrition experts.

"The focus used to be on total fats. Now, it's on the quality of the fat," said Jo Ann Carson, professor of clinical nutrition at University of Texas Southwestern Medical Center, Dallas. "The consumer has to decide: Which oil shall I take off the shelf to go home and cook with, and what fats are in the prepared foods I buy?"

The emphasis on fat type is reflected in the 2005 Dietary Guidelines for Americans -- a plan supermarkets are willing to promote, said Alison Kretser, senior director of scientific and nutrition policy at Grocery Manufacturers of America, Washington. Further clarification and direction will come from the replacement for the food pyramid issued several weeks ago, as well as the new Nutrition Facts panels stating the amount of trans fats in foods beginning Jan. 1, 2006.

The guidelines call for the consumption of less than 10% of calories from saturated fatty acids (such as partially hydrogenated oil) and less than 300 milligrams per day of cholesterol. The recommendations focus on healthier fats like monounsaturated and polyunsaturated fats, found in fish, nuts and vegetable oils, and on selecting and preparing meat, poultry, dry beans, and milk or milk products that are low-fat or fat-free. At the same time, the guidelines broaden the suggested caloric intake from fat to a range of 20% to 35%, compared with previous recommendation of 30%.

Retailers should be prepared to understand the significance of the changes, and be ready to explain it to customers. "It's important for supermarkets to make sure customers have access to the information they need and to make sure employees dealing with customers daily are knowledgeable," said Allison Beadle, dietitian for H-E-B Central Market, San Antonio, Texas. "Supermarkets need a strategy to help customers put the new dietary guidelines into practice. It's hard, even as a health care professional, to stay on top of all that's out there."

The American Dietetic Association, Chicago, offers a breakdown of the four main types of dietary fats: -

Saturated fats are present mainly in meat and poultry, whole or reduced-fat milk, and butter. Vegetable oils like coconut, palm kernel and palm oil are saturated. Eating too many foods high in saturated fats may increase blood levels of low-density lipoproteins, or bad cholesterol.

- Trans fats are formed when vegetable oils are processed into margarine or shortening. They are present in snack foods and baked goods made with partially hydrogenated vegetable oil or vegetable shortening and in some animal products, such as dairy goods. Trans fats act like saturated fats and raise LDL but may lower high-density lipoproteins, or good cholesterol.

- Monounsaturated fats are in vegetable oils, including canola, olive and peanut oils. Foods high in monounsaturated fats may help lower LDL and decrease the risk of heart disease.

- Polyunsaturated fats are in seafood, as well as safflower, sunflower, corn, flaxseed and canola oils. Eating polyunsaturated fats instead of saturated fats decreases LDL.

These distinctions aren't easy to digest. Questions on trans fats and partially hydrogenated oil are the most common inquiries on fats when online customers use the "Ask Our Dietitian" feature on the Web site operated by Ingles Markets.

"They don't understand what they are and why they're bad," said Leah McGrath, corporate dietitian for the Asheville, N.C.-based chain.

Other supermarket nutrition departments are fielding questions about omega-3 fatty acids, which have proved in recommended amounts to reduce the risk of heart attack, stroke and other cardiovascular illness. Sources of omega-3 include fatty fish, such as salmon and mackerel, and soybean, canola and flaxseed oil.

"People ask about the best food sources of omega-3 and are confused by some of the new products, such as eggs and bread, that are fortified with omega-3," said Paulette Thompson, health and wellness manager for Ahold USA's Stop & Shop and Giant Foods, Landover, Md. "Awareness will be growing because the dietary guidelines specifically mentioned omega-3."

Omega-3 is different from omega-6, another type of polyunsaturated fat, present in canola, soybean and other vegetable oil. "Both are essential fatty acids, but the American diet does not have enough omega-3. It does have enough omega-6," Central Market's Beadle said.

The replacement for the food pyramid and the addition of the trans fats listing on the Nutrition Facts panel will provide visuals to help retailers and consumers better understand fats.

Some food companies are already listing trans fats in advance of the January 2006 deadline. Nutritionists expect demand for trans fat-free foods to increase as the date approaches, but warn against substituting one bad fat for another.

"When you see something low in trans fat, you should look at the saturated fat content," said Carson of the University of Texas. "Reading the ingredients label is also important. Most consumers know they are better off selecting a liquid oil -- for example, liquid canola oil rather than partially hydrogenated soybean oil," said Carson, who edited "Cardiovascular Nutrition: Disease Management and Prevention," a book published last fall by the American Dietetic Association.

Distinguishing among different fats is important in providing consumers with healthier choices and improving food's palatability, GMA's Kretser said. "It encourages increasing the consumption of vegetables that can now be flavored with healthier fats."

Likewise, during one of Central Market's recent health-oriented cooking classes, Beadle gave a lesson on preparing wild salmon -- one of the best sources of omega-3 -- in a "gourmet and time-friendly manner," she said, adding that education is key. Central Market is in the preliminary stages of setting up other programs to teach employees and customers about nutrition.

Others have set projects in motion to promote healthy fats. "We try to educate consumers through circular ads, information on our Web site and materials in the store, said Thompson of Stop & Shop and Giant Foods. "Individual departments, like our seafood department, will send out information to the staff on omega-3."