WAL-MART LABELS LOCAL CATFISH

MATTHEW ENIS

BENTONVILLE, Ark. -- In an effort to support the local aquaculture industry and garner customer loyalty, Wal-Mart Stores is promoting Mississippi and Arkansas farm-raised catfish in stores in both states.

U.S. Rep. Bennie Thompson, D-Miss., last week announced that Country Select Fish, Isola, Miss., had reached an agreement with the chain to label its products as locally farm raised, following a similar labeling promotion launched in August for Arkansas catfish processed by America's Catch, Itta Bena, Miss.

"We wanted to support local agriculture and aquaculture in both states, and customers have responded very positively," Bruce Peterson, senior vice president and general manager of perishables for Wal-Mart, told SN.

Mississippi, the largest producer of farm-raised catfish in the United States, processes 500 million pounds of catfish annually.

Aquaculture is a vital industry in neighboring Southern states as well, and with local producers facing pressure from Vietnamese and Chinese imports, the label program informs customers that they're buying locally.

Country-of-origin labeling requirements may ultimately help the U.S. farm-raised catfish industry, particularly as customers learn more about American standards vs. those of other countries, said Bobby Giachelli, director of national sales for America's Catch.

Since U.S. farm-raised catfish are fed a grain-based diet, they have a more consistent, delicate flavor than foreign or wild catfish and are significantly less likely to harbor pollutants such as methyl mercury or PCBs than some other types of farm-raised fish.

But Peterson said that the regional labeling program goes beyond the impact of a COOL label.

"It's not just 'Made in the U.S.A.,' it's made in our customers' local towns," Peterson said.

The program comes at a time when catfish farmers are hoping to latch onto the growing popularity of seafood as a healthy option, and expand catfish's appeal beyond its traditional reputation as a Southern indulgence.

"Most people are only familiar with this product as battered, breaded and fried," said Giachelli.

"We're trying to encourage retailers and consumers to recognize the diverse ways that catfish can be prepared," he added.

The Catfish Institute, an alliance of Southern catfish farmers and processors, has compiled a recipe book, dubbed "You Don't Have to Fry it to Love It," available free on its Web site, www.catfishinstitute.com.

Furthermore, the agency this year took advantage of the country's heated political climate with a "Vote For America's Fish: Red, White and Good" campaign, which marketed farm-raised catfish through a variety of recipes, advertisements, and patriotic bumper stickers and T-shirts.

Although the humble fish's potential for gourmet appeal is not certain, U.S. consumption has grown 34% since 1995, to 1.15 pounds per capita, and restaurant owners around the country seem poised to take catfish beyond its deep-fried roots.