SUPERMARKET ENTREES EARN STARS ON 'TODAY' SHOW SEGMENT

ROBERT VOSBURGH

NEW YORK -- Supermarket fresh meals got top billing when they were featured on a recent edition of NBC's "Today" where they starred in a segment on meal options for busy consumers.

The live piece featured products from Lunds/Byerly's, Edina, Minn.; Genuardi's Family Markets, Norristown, Pa.; Food Emporium, part of A&P, Montvale, N.J.; and Jewel Food Stores, Melrose Park, Ill.

Additionally, Alaska Seafood International provided examples of brand-name and private-label entrees it prepares for supermarkets that choose to outsource the business. The entire segment was arranged and orchestrated by the program's veteran retail issues correspondent, Phil Lempert, a self-described "consumerologist" and publisher of The Lempert Report, a biweekly analysis and discussion of retail issues.

While supermarkets are a regular topic of discussion on the show, this was the first time that the fresh-meals category has been singled out and highlighted. Retailers who traveled with their star cargo all agreed that the national exposure on such a well-known program is a sure indication that supermarket fresh meals have come of age and -- more importantly -- are gaining credence as a legitimate option to restaurant takeout.

"This kind of exposure will hopefully remind people that [supermarkets] are striving to meet their needs, and that we have the ability to make fresh home meals for them and their families," said Jim DeGilio, director of food service for Genuardi's.

The chain used the occasion to introduce the world to its cornbread, which was rolled out to all units the week before. Currently, it is sold as a whole loaf for $2.49 or by random weight. Its debut coincided with Genuardi's annual winter chili program, of which it is a part. Unlike the chili, DeGilio said, the bread will be available year-round, since it is flexible enough to go with almost any dish.

Dave Barber, executive chef of meat and seafood operations for Lunds-Byerly's, said the segment -- which aired nationwide Feb. 3 -- would change the common perception consumers have about their supermarket deli/meals department.

"We're bringing in more food-service professionals than ever before," he said. "These people are trained chefs who prepare restaurant-quality food. The only difference is where it's sold."

His colleague, Paul Supplee, executive pastry chef, agreed, saying that culinary experience is becoming a must for any supermarket that wants to compete in the meals business.

"More people need to realize the caliber of food you can get at a supermarket," he said. "And that is because stores are starting to think like food-service [operators]."

Viewers were treated to a full spread of savory concoctions, most of which were either freshly prepared or finished backstage just before airtime. Besides the corn bread, Genuardi's rolled out such bestsellers as its Take 'N Bake BBQ Chicken Pizza, Vegetable Panini and Veggie Wrap Sandwich.

Lunds-Byerly's showed some of its own signature entrees, such as Chicken Wellington, Chicken Dijon With Herbed Rice, Marinated Kalbi Beef Kabobs and Jamaican Jerk Seasoned Pork Chops, all under its Meals to Go! label.

Byerly's also showcased some of its ready-to-cook items, packaged under its Chefs Market label.

Items from Food Emporium's The Outgoing Chef included chicken pot pie topped with potato; Jewel sent several pint containers of prepared gourmet salads, stuffed potato sides and Rotisserie Pork Loin Roast, part of its C.K. Express brand. Alaska Seafood International flew in items like Run for the Border Alaska Halibut, a filet stuffed with shrimp and crab in breadcrumbs, lime juice and cilantro, topped with Tequila lime sauce.

Lempert and "Today" co-host Katie Couric introduced the segment with a 1970s-era television commercial for Kentucky Fried Chicken, in which a harried housewife in a kerchief sighs that she needs "a break." She is then surprised by her family, who enter the kitchen with their arms full of Kentucky Fried Chicken products.

Lempert cited a recent survey from the Food Marketing Institute, Washington, in which eight of 10 shoppers take into account ease of preparation and time in making their purchasing decisions.

"Supermarkets have sold rotisserie chickens for years and it's this product that helped convince supermarkets that takeout is big business," he told Couric and the viewer audience. "The deli department is a lot more than just sliced turkey and coleslaw."

In response, Couric expressed an opinion that many industry leaders say they believe goes to the heart of the challenge faced by supermarket fresh-meals programs: The image of salads and meats that look old and have a crust on them.

"People still have the image of an old-fashioned deli with the crust on the potato salad," Genuardi's Barber agreed. "Our job is to build up trust and overcome those old stereotypes."

The color and presentation of the dishes displayed on the program certainly seemed to change a few minds on the "Today" set. During the commercial break after the segment was completed, the air talent and support crew wasted no time in sampling the just-cooked foods.

At one point, Al Roker, the "Today" show's light-hearted meteorologist, walked into the studio and exclaimed "Food!" He appeared to become an instant convert to supermarket fresh meals as the sampling continued.

"I hope people who saw this [segment] will go back to their supermarket deli or [home-meal replacement] department and take a second look at what's being offered," said Lempert.

While the restaurant-quality food looked delicious on stage, very few realized the effort that goes into creating it. The Lunds-Byerly's and Genuardi's teams arrived in New York the night before, bringing with them boxes of food to prepare and items that had to be finished, and were at the studio at 5:30 a.m. the day of the show to begin preparing the food.

Just off the set, NBC had a utilitarian work space for the retailer guests that included a stovetop, which quickly filled up. The Lunds-Byerly's team brought along its own ovens, which they shared with Genuardi's. Both crews hovered over their creations, slicing mushrooms and peppers, plating entrees and placing garnishes, right up until the moment stage technicians entered and announced it was showtime.

Though none of the retailers appeared before the camera, they said they were pleased with the way the segment turned out.

"I hope there's a recognition now that supermarkets can be an option to fast food," said Dan McDole, food-service specialist for Genuardi's. "We've come a long way and really reflect today's tastes."